It’s been over two months since I posted my YN-622N review, and I thought it was time for a quick follow up on how it has performed. I’ve added updates to both parts of my review, but I’ll put all the updates into this post, along with some new information. Come take a looksie after I get some more coffee….
First things first, here are, once again, the specs:
Quick specs for the YN622N:
- Flash Modes: i-TTL, Manual
- Shutter Sync Modes: front-curtain sync, rear-curtain, High Speed Sync up to 1/8000s.
- Remote Control Mode (Control the off camera flash power from the transceiver)
- Mode mixing with i-TTL/Manual/Repeating (Mix Mode)
- Supports a master unit on top of the transceiver, on the camera.
- FEC, FVL
- Supports flash zooming
- Built in AF assist beam
And the cameras and flashes supported:
- Nikon D70/D70S/D80/D90/D200/D300/D300S/D600/D700/D800
- D3000, 5000 and 7000 series (all cameras in each line.)
- Yongnuo YN-465/YN467N/YN-468II/YN-565N/YN-568N
- Nikon SB-400/SB-600/SB-700/SB-800/SB-900/SB-910
Got it? Good. Now on to the follow-up. My first review was very positive. I noted that the triggers were reliable, well-built, and they just worked the way they were supposed to. All at a ridiculously cheap price. I still feel that way for the most part, here is a review of some things I’ve discovered since my first review, some good, some bad.
- Every once in a while, and this is only when I first turn on the triggers, they just don’t work. They just sit there with a solid red light. It looks as though the triggers just aren’t seeing that they are connected to the camera or off camera flash. The issue is fixed by doing a factory reset to both triggers. Once I do that, they work again. Please note that taking the batteries out don’t work, you have to actually reset both triggers. Replacing the batteries don’t do anything either. This happens pretty rarely, maybe every 20-30 times that I power them on. I’m not sure if it’s just my set, or this is a glitch with the triggers.
- This next one is pretty cool, and really useful. You can control the off camera flash power by either using the EV or flash compensation. This works on my D90, I’m guessing it works on other models too. It works with my SB-700 and my YN-468 II. I have my YN-560 II on order, I’m guessing it’ll work on that too. I use this technique way more than I use the buttons on the transceiver. Thanks again, monkeyman, good call.
- The 622n’s are pretty damn durable. Unfortunately, I’ve dropped them 2-3 times on to a hard surface, and so far, no damage. I freaked out the first time it happened, but they seem to be pretty solid. Not that I want to make a habit of it. Well any more of a habit…
- The battery life is top-notch on these bad boys. Seriously good shit. I use NIMH batts, and they last through several shoots without having to be replaced. I’m not shooting every day, but still pretty good. I’ve used alkaline a few times…..not so great. I always carry a bunch of the cheap alkalines from job lots as emergency batteries and tested them out a few times.
It looks like you can now buy these on eBay in the U.S for 80-90 bucks. Sweet. I’m going to pick up another set at some point. Right now I’m just setting my flash that doesn’t have a transceiver to manual and let it fire from another flash. I gotta say, I really love not having to rely on CLS, especially outdoors. I know there are a lot of people who argue that all you needs is CLS, but I just can’t agree with it. There isn’t a lot more to say about these, they are still working really well. The only real negative is that they do flake out once in a while. That being said, go get a set!!