DaveMazz Photography

Obsessed with Photography

DaveMazz Photography - Obsessed with Photography

Yongnuo YN-622N Review Part 2 – CLS Comparison and HSS

Welcome to my Yongnuo YN-622N review!  In the first part of my review of the YN-622N, I went over the basics, as well as compared some images in TTL and manual modes, using different EV values.  In the second part of the review, I’m going to be comparing the High Speed Sync (or Auto FP in Nikonese), and TTL capabilities of the 622N to the capabilities of Nikon’s CLS system, using the D90’s built-in commander mode.  I took a bunch of images, and have the results…..I’m also adding some more thoughts on these triggers, as I’ve had some more time to play with them.

Yongnuo YN-622N Review

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just want to mention a few quick things I’ve discovered/read on other sites about the 622N’s, and which I have tested and agreed with:

1.  As mentioned in part 1 of my review, and kind of a big deal in my opinion, is you absolutely don’t always have to have the off camera flash(s) in TTL mode IF you don’t mind walking up to the off camera flash to change the settings.  You only have to have them in TTL mode if you want to remotely change the power settings from the 622N sitting on top of your camera.  This is important if you want to know the exact settings that your off camera flash is firing at, and especially important in manual mode.  It is nice to have this choice, and makes me less inclined to buy a master to sit on top of my 622N, on camera.  In a nutshell, you can still use these as “dumb” triggers.

2.  The default power level when switching to manual mode is 1/16 power for your off camera flash.  This is actually in the instruction manual, I confirmed it, and another poster on Lightingrumuors did too.  Handy if you want to know the exact settings when moving up or down a stop.

Ok, on to the review.  As in part 1, I’m using my trusty D90, with the Nikon 50mm 1.8 AF-S D lens and a generic eBay 24 inch softbox. ISO 200 on all shots.  I’m using the SB-700 also, as my YN468-II isn’t capable of HSS.  I’m going to start with a comparison of the 622N TTL versus the Nikon CLS system, using my D90 in commander mode:

wpid869-622N.TTL_.0EV.F2.jpgwpid903-622N.CLS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid871-622N.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.jpgwpid905-622N.CLS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid873-622N.TTL_.0EV.F10.jpgwpid907-622N.CLS_.TTL_.0EV.F10.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid875-622N.TTL_.0EV.F16.jpgwpid909-622N.CLS_.TTL_.0EV.F16.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The results don’t look too far off from each other, in fact the 622N looks like it is exposing a little brighter than the CLS, although both are underexposed, I suppose this is because of the softbox I’m using.  As the aperture gets smaller, the more the image is underexposed, by f10, it’s looking pretty dark.  I hope to do some more testing in real world situations, although I don’t use TTL too much.  On thing I have noticed though, is there have been a few times where I’ve switched from manual mode to TTL, and the results are wildly off, as in 3 stops or more under or overexposed.  I reset the transceiver on my camera and it fixes the issue.  I’m not sure why this happens, just a heads up on it.

 

Here are the HSS shots, starting with f2.8, a pretty common aperture if you are going to shoot outside and want to use a shallow depth of field.  Note that the pop up flash isn’t influencing the image, I used a DIY reflector to diffuse it.

wpid-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.500.jpgwpid911-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.500.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.1000.jpgwpid913-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.1000.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid883-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.2000.jpgwpid915-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.2000.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid885-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.4000.jpgwpid917-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F2.8.4000.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again it looks as though the 622N is exposing a little brighter here too, note that I’m still using a softbox. I only took shots using f2.8 and f5.6, lets take a look at f5.6:

wpid887-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.500.jpgwpid919-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.500.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid889-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.1000.jpgwpid921-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.1000.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid891-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.2000.jpgwpid923-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.2000.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wpid893-622N.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.4000.jpgwpid925-622N.CLS_.HSS_.TTL_.0EV.F5.6.4000.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By 5.6, it’s a little more even, 622N may be a little brighter at slower shutter speeds..  I’d say that it’s pretty even between CLS and the 622N for these two apertures, maybe a slight edge to the 622N.  Obviously this is just a quick test with only one flash, so I’m sure others will get different results.

I’ve used these triggers pretty extensively over the last few weeks, and the only time that they have missed a shot is if the batteries are very low.  Once you get a solid red light on one of them, it is time to change out the batteries.  I’m using pretty standard Energizer NIMH batts and they last quite a while, I’ve only changed them out a few times.

I tested out the range a bit more a few days ago.  I positioned my SB-700 on a light stand with my softbox.  This was in my living room at the front of the house.  I then went in my backyard about 25 feet from the door and fired off a bunch of shots, probably 15-20.  With walls in the way, it fired every time.  Not unexpected, but just nice to know that they are working as intended.

Overall, I would buy these again in a second, and probably will soon.  eBay now has a bunch of them delivered from the U.S., so shipping should be much quicker.  Manual mode works great, and I find myself remotely changing the settings more than changing them from the off camera flash.  TTL seems to work as it should most of the time, although I’d like to see no shots wildly under/overexposed, but I can live with it.  If you shoot exclusively in TTL, it may become a bigger problem.

Although i didn’t mention much on testing with my 468-II, I use it and the SB-700 interchangeably, which ever is closest is the one I will use, as the 468-II works just as good, minus the HSS.    I’ll be updating this review as I do some more testing.  If you are looking to get into off camera flash, or even just looking for some new triggers, these are an attractive choice at a super low price.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Mfrankfort says:

    I had a question. I have a 568EXII, and I love that you can control everything using the Commander Mode. TTL, M output and such, but sometimes outside my flash doesn’t see the signal from the pop up flash. If I add a 622 under the off camera flash, and a 622 on top of my camera (D600), can I still control everything in Commander mode, or is it now restricted to the 622?

    15 August, 2013 at 12:39 am
    • davemazz says:

      Hi there Mfrankfort. No, you absolutely will not be able to control anything through the commander mode within the cameras menu once you use the 622. Kind of a bummer, but I’ve gotten used to it by now though. This is why some users were thinking about getting a flash to sit on top of the 622 on-camera (like the SU-800), because you can control the off camera flash this way, through the on-camera flash sitting on top of the 622! As long as the flash is capable of being a master. Just use the menus right on the flashes LCD. I have no idea why they just didn’t allow built in commander mode to funtion, may be a technology limitation? I originally was going to get an SU-800 just for this purpose, but as I used the 622 more, I decided not to. What you can do though is control the power of the flash using the on-camera EV. I was a little surprised this worked, but it does (thanks cameraman for the idea). Just set it plus or minus, and the off camera flash sitting on top of the 622 will adjust accordingly. And of course you can control the off camera flash directly from the transceiver sitting on top of your camera, although it doesn’t have the info that the commander menu does. Hope this helps!

      15 August, 2013 at 10:40 am
  • monkeyman says:

    thanks Dave for checking the feature out!
    let me just clarify… while camera is in M mode and flash in TTL, when you change exposure compensation on the camera (via camera button) this will change both flash exposure (light on the subject) and the camera exposure (ambient light in the background)? or only the flash exposure (which doesn’t change the ambient light)?

    12 July, 2013 at 4:24 pm
    • davemazz says:

      Both the flash compensation and the exposure compensation buttons on the camera change the power output of the external flash. However, the exposure compensation on the camera doesn’t change the ambient. ditto with the flash compensation.. I think it is kind of neat that you can change the flash output using both the flash and exposure compensation. I was way more surprised that you could use EC to change the power output.

      15 July, 2013 at 8:17 pm
      • monkeyman says:

        that’s great. In some situations I found it very handy to change the flash power via EC button on the camera.
        thanks again for taking the time and checking this out.
        I think I’m ready now to order my Yongnuos:)

        16 July, 2013 at 11:51 am
        • davemazz says:

          No problem, glad I could help. Good luck, let me know how you like them! I’m still loving them, and will probably pick up another set once I purchase another speedlight.

          20 July, 2013 at 12:29 am
  • davemazz says:

    Hmmm, that is a good question. My gut tells me that you can’t, I’ll test it though and let you know.

    9 July, 2013 at 4:27 pm
  • monkey man says:

    Hi Dave, thanks for putting the second part of the review together. It is good to see that the results in TTL and HSS are very good.

    I want to ask you one question… can you adjust flash exposure through camera exposure compensation button when flash is in TTL?

    I often use use this setup: camera in M mode and camera flash in TTL using CSL (can be either on or off camera) and then I adjust the flash exposure (only) by adjusting +/- exposure button on the top of D90. I found this faster way to change the flash exposure in TTL than using buttons on the flash or going to the camera menu. Can you check if this functionality works?

    Thanks and keep up the good work.

    3 July, 2013 at 7:43 pm
    • davemazz says:

      Well MonkeyMan, my gut was wrong! With the camera in manual mode, I was able to change both the flash compensation and the exposure compensation on the camera, and the off camera flash changed accordingly, in manual or TTL. That is a pretty sweet feature, I’m going to add it to my initial review, nice call!

      11 July, 2013 at 12:32 am

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