Welcome to my Yongnuo YN-622N review!  In the first part of my review of the YN-622N, I went over the basics, as well as compared some images in TTL and manual modes, using different EV values.  In the second part of the review, I’m going to be comparing the High Speed Sync (or Auto FP in Nikonese), and TTL capabilities of the 622N to the capabilities of Nikon’s CLS system, using the D90’s built-in commander mode.  I took a bunch of images, and have the results…..I’m also adding some more thoughts on these triggers, as I’ve had some more time to play with them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just want to mention a few quick things I’ve discovered/read on other sites about the 622N’s, and which I have tested and agreed with:

1.  As mentioned in part 1 of my review, and kind of a big deal in my opinion, is you absolutely don’t always have to have the off camera flash(s) in TTL mode IF you don’t mind walking up to the off camera flash to change the settings.  You only have to have them in TTL mode if you want to remotely change the power settings from the 622N sitting on top of your camera.  This is important if you want to know the exact settings that your off camera flash is firing at, and especially important in manual mode.  It is nice to have this choice, and makes me less inclined to buy a master to sit on top of my 622N, on camera.  In a nutshell, you can still use these as “dumb” triggers.

2.  The default power level when switching to manual mode is 1/16 power for your off camera flash.  This is actually in the instruction manual, I confirmed it, and another poster on Lightingrumuors did too.  Handy if you want to know the exact settings when moving up or down a stop.

Ok, on to the review.  As in part 1, I’m using my trusty D90, with the Nikon 50mm 1.8 AF-S D lens and a generic eBay 24 inch softbox. ISO 200 on all shots.  I’m using the SB-700 also, as my YN468-II isn’t capable of HSS.  I’m going to start with a comparison of the 622N TTL versus the Nikon CLS system, using my D90 in commander mode:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The results don’t look too far off from each other, in fact the 622N looks like it is exposing a little brighter than the CLS, although both are underexposed, I suppose this is because of the softbox I’m using.  As the aperture gets smaller, the more the image is underexposed, by f10, it’s looking pretty dark.  I hope to do some more testing in real world situations, although I don’t use TTL too much.  On thing I have noticed though, is there have been a few times where I’ve switched from manual mode to TTL, and the results are wildly off, as in 3 stops or more under or overexposed.  I reset the transceiver on my camera and it fixes the issue.  I’m not sure why this happens, just a heads up on it.

 

Here are the HSS shots, starting with f2.8, a pretty common aperture if you are going to shoot outside and want to use a shallow depth of field.  Note that the pop up flash isn’t influencing the image, I used a DIY reflector to diffuse it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again it looks as though the 622N is exposing a little brighter here too, note that I’m still using a softbox. I only took shots using f2.8 and f5.6, lets take a look at f5.6:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By 5.6, it’s a little more even, 622N may be a little brighter at slower shutter speeds..  I’d say that it’s pretty even between CLS and the 622N for these two apertures, maybe a slight edge to the 622N.  Obviously this is just a quick test with only one flash, so I’m sure others will get different results.

I’ve used these triggers pretty extensively over the last few weeks, and the only time that they have missed a shot is if the batteries are very low.  Once you get a solid red light on one of them, it is time to change out the batteries.  I’m using pretty standard Energizer NIMH batts and they last quite a while, I’ve only changed them out a few times.

I tested out the range a bit more a few days ago.  I positioned my SB-700 on a light stand with my softbox.  This was in my living room at the front of the house.  I then went in my backyard about 25 feet from the door and fired off a bunch of shots, probably 15-20.  With walls in the way, it fired every time.  Not unexpected, but just nice to know that they are working as intended.

Overall, I would buy these again in a second, and probably will soon.  eBay now has a bunch of them delivered from the U.S., so shipping should be much quicker.  Manual mode works great, and I find myself remotely changing the settings more than changing them from the off camera flash.  TTL seems to work as it should most of the time, although I’d like to see no shots wildly under/overexposed, but I can live with it.  If you shoot exclusively in TTL, it may become a bigger problem.

Although i didn’t mention much on testing with my 468-II, I use it and the SB-700 interchangeably, which ever is closest is the one I will use, as the 468-II works just as good, minus the HSS.    I’ll be updating this review as I do some more testing.  If you are looking to get into off camera flash, or even just looking for some new triggers, these are an attractive choice at a super low price.