DaveMazz Photography

Obsessed with Photography

DaveMazz Photography - Obsessed with Photography

Yongnuo YN-622N Review Part I – Introduction and Test Shots

I’ve waited months for these triggers to come out, they are finally here and I’m super excited to share my Yongnuo YN-622N review.  These triggers are about 80 bucks for a pair of two, many times cheaper than most name brand triggers, especially considering their features.  I ended up getting mine on eBay for about 90 dollars, shipped from Utah.  I paid the extra 10 bucks so I wouldn’t have to wait.  I’ve gotten lucky, as most of them are still being shipped from China, which could take a month to deliver.  I’m sure soon enough they will be shipping from the USA.  Read on to see if they were worth the wait….


Yongnuo YN-622N Review









First a little background.  These are my first set of flash triggers.  Before these, I used the Nikon CLS system exclusively.  I have a D90 and used the pop up flash in commander mode.  This worked very well indoors, but outside was hit or miss, especially if the sun was out.  I also didn’t like the pop-up flash contributing to my exposure.  Even if you set it to –, there was still a hint of it, especially if you were taking close up or macro shots.  I ended up creating a few DIY reflectors for it to bounce the flash away from my subject.

The other issue was line of sight.  It wasn’t really an issue using my SB-700, since even a hint of flash and that thing triggers, but most 3rd party flashes had to be in the vicinity.  The range isn’t really an issue for me, as I don’t usually shoot too far away from my off camera flash.  That out of the way, lets rock.

Quick specs for the YN622N:

  • Flash Modes: i-TTL, Manual
  • Shutter Sync Modes: front-curtain sync, rear-curtain, High Speed Sync up to 1/8000s.
  • Remote Control Mode (Control the off camera flash power from the transceiver)
  • Mode mixing with i-TTL/Manual/Repeating (Mix Mode)
  • Supports a master unit on top of the transceiver, on the camera.
  • FEC, FVL
  • Supports flash zooming
  • Built in AF assist beam

And the cameras and flashes supported:

  • Nikon D70/D70S/D80/D90/D200/D300/D300S/D600/D700/D800
  • D3000, 5000 and 7000 series (all cameras in each line.)
  • Yongnuo YN-465/YN467N/YN-468II/YN-565N/YN-568N
  • Nikon SB-400/SB-600/SB-700/SB-800/SB-900/SB-910

*A note on the supported flashes.  The SB-800 doesn’t work in Master Mode, as it isn’t in the manual as a supported Master Mode flash, and tests have proven this.  It looks as the though both the SB-600 and SB-800 work fine in manual mode, but are buggy in TTL mode, although the manual says it supports both in TTL.  UPDATE 6.24.13: Although the SB800 is definitely having issues with TTL on all units, the SB600 seems to be hit or miss.  From what I’ve read, some users aren’t having issues with it, others are.  Hopefully more information will come out on it soon.  This is due to the pins on both of these flashes being older than the current generation of Nikon flashes.  There have been some reports in forums on users moving these flashes back a few millimeters so the contacts touch.  Just an FYI if you use the SB-600 or 800.

First impressions; very solid design, good weight also, they don’t feel like they are only 80 dollar triggers.  The battery cover is also solid, not paper thin like some of the inexpensive electronics I’ve ordered on eBay in the past.

Let’s give them a whirl.  I’m going to be blunt, the instruction manual is crap.  It is pretty confusing to figure out how to operate the triggers at first.  A big thanks to Lighting Rumours for the easy explanation how to use them. I powered both of them on, attached one transceiver to my D90, and the other to my SB-700.

I plan on changing all the settings remotely, and once you understand how to do it, it is really easy and pretty quick.  It’s about a 3 second process to go up or down a stop.  You essentially hold down either the CHANNEL + or TEST/- until whatever channel you are using lights up, then you let go of the button.  This will add a stop or subtract a stop, depending on which you want.  This is a very simple explanation, but it is simple to do once you understand it.  A pretty important point I want to make is that you ALWAYS have to have the off camera flash in TTL mode, regardless if you want to use the flash in manual mode or TTL. UPDATE 6.24.13:  You only have to have the off camera flash in TTL mode if you want to remotely change the power output from the on camera transceiver.  If you prefer to manually change the output by walking up to the flash, you can change the flash mode to manual, TTL etc.  The 622N can’t transmit any information unless the flash is in TTL.  This goes for if you are using a Nikon or Yongnuo flash.  It’s not immediately obvious.

UPDATE 7.11.13: You can control the off camera flash power by changing the flash or exposure compensation on your camera.  I tested it using my D90, and it worked every time.  I tested with my D90 in manual mode, and with the off camera flash in TTL or manual.  Nice call on that, MonkeyMan.

Another thing is that no matter what off camera flash you are using, you aren’t going to know the exact power setting the flash is using.  On the SB-700, the LCD screen always just says TTL, same with a Yongnuo.  When you go up or down a stop as explained last paragraph, the transceiver will blink a few times to let you know it registered the command, that’s it.  This is one of the reasons some people are going to use a master on top of the transceiver, on camera, so they can see what the power settings are on the off camera flashes.  This goes for TTL or Manual mode.  May be a big deal to some, others may not care.  Personally, I would like to have this information, as I like to record what my off camera flash settings were, in a notebook.  But for this price, it’s hard to really complain.  Even if I end up buying an SU-800 or similar, I’m still saving a ton of money over the more expensive triggers.

Ok, onto performance.  I used my D90, along with the Nikon 50mm 1.8 AF-S D lens for all shots.  I also tested with my SB-700.  I have a YN-468II that I also used, and the results were very similar.  I shot through a 24 inch softbox.  Let’s start with TTL performance:


Yongnuo YN-622N ReviewYongnuo YN-622N Review








Yongnuo YN-622N ReviewYongnuo YN-622N Review











Definitely some interesting results.  As you can see, starting from the top left, the first two, f4 and f7.1 look pretty good.  In fact their histograms also look pretty similar, maybe a little underexposed.  Once we get to f14 though, with no compensation, it is clearly underexposed.  The last image is with +1 EV, and that is looking better.  I’ve shot a lot more TTL since these first shots, and it has been pretty consistent.  I’ve yet to get any kind of wildly off shots.  I will say though, that once you get to around f14, you may want to bump up your EV a stop.

I don’t normally shoot TTL, I’m usually on manual, lets take a look at some shots in manual:


Yongnuo YN-622N ReviewYongnuo YN-622N Review








Yongnuo YN-622N ReviewYongnuo YN-622N Review











The first shot is blown out.  I did a factory reset of both transceivers before going into manual just to see where it would start at.  It looks like I’m about a stop too high.  I also put in -1/3 stop so you can see the difference between it and 1 full stop.  UPDATE:  Although the image says TTL in the caption of the 4th manual shot above, it is actually a manual shot.  Everything here worked pretty much as expected.

I didn’t get a chance to use High Speed Sync until only a few hours ago.  My 8 month old and I had an impromptu photo session outside.  It worked very well on both TTL and manual mode.  I shot up to about 1/1000, and the shots all look good.  I don’t use HSS too often, unless I’m outside, and this is just awesome that these triggers can support it.  You normally have to pay quite a bit more to get this functionality.

Overall, I’m pretty happy with the triggers.  There hasn’t been one misfire yet, although it’s only been a few days.  All features have worked as advertised.  I wish that I could tell what exact power that your flash was popping at, but I’ll probably end up getting a master for it at some point.  A note on getting a master.  Having the D90, with a grip, a transceiver, and another flash gets pretty heavy.  But then again, just another excuse to get another SB-700….

I will have part two of the review up by the weekend of 6/28.  It will include high speed sync testing as well as the 622N TTL vs. CLS.  In the meantime, GET THESE if you are looking for some cheap triggers.  I wish I could say they are super reliable, but only time will tell….

  • kitchen says:

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    20 November, 2018 at 3:45 pm
  • John Pelham says:

    Having had inconsistent results with an sb800 I have found that by using a Nikon sc-28 flash lead between the yn622n tranceiver & the flashgun it overcomes the problem of the unreliable pin contact on the sb800. It makes things a bit more complicated, but for studio work or where you can use a tripod or light-stand, the sb800 can just have the flash lead dangling with the yn-662n attached.
    Give it a try as it works for me.

    7 November, 2015 at 9:29 am
  • Mikemixes says:

    I have a d7000, two yn622n and an sb700.
    I can get all to work well except one thing, I can’t adjust power in manual mode. It works fine in TTL and it is easy to + or – by a stop at a time.
    I can work the flash remotely in manual mode ;my preferred method), but can’t adjust the power level the same way. I am confused by the statements above about the flash having to be In iTTL to have its levels adjusted remotely. How can I adjust the power in this way if it is no longer In manual? Please help…

    26 October, 2013 at 5:08 pm
    • davemazz says:

      Hi there. There are two different ways to control the off camera flash in manual mode, using the yn622n. The first way would be to change the yn622n on your camera to manual mode. You’ll know it’s in manual mode because the light towards the bottom of the yn622n will be orange. Once you have changed it to manual mode, make sure that the SB700 is still in TTL mode. Now you can change the power of the flash by using the yn622n that is on top of your camera.

      The second way to control the off camera flash in manual mode is to set the yn622n on top of your camera to manual, and then change the SB700 to manual mode. Now if you decide to use this setup, you will have to change the flash power settings directly from the SB700, you won’t be able to remotely change it from the yn622n sitting on your camera.

      For the first choice above, it does sounds strange that you have to keep the flash in TTL mode, even though you are using the flash manually. The reason is that the yn622n needs the TTL mode to send “instructions” to your flash, even it it’s manual. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions though.

      28 October, 2013 at 11:38 pm
      • Mike Aiton says:

        Hi Dave

        Thank you kindly for your reply. Your reply confirms my anecdotal experimentation. So even if the sb700 is in iTTL the yn622n being in manual forces it to be in manual. How do you set its initial power level then if it he flash is in iTTL mode? I usually fire the a test shot at a guess of 1/16 or so in manual and go up or down from there. If the flash is in iTTL mode how do I set its initial power? And can you confirm that the camera definitely isn’t barying or controlling the exposure in this mode?
        If I want to work in iTTL remote mode with the triggers then I use fec from the camera to control or adjust the flash power?



        Ps will the new LED controller from Youngnuo make this easier?

        29 October, 2013 at 3:22 pm
        • davemazz says:

          Hi Mike. That is a good question. I looked for that very answer when I first started with the 622n. You don’t set it initially in manual mode. You pretty much just take a test shot and work from there. I’m pretty sure it is right around 1/16 when you take that first shot. If there is a time when I really want to record what power level my flash fired at, I’ll just switch my SB700 to manual mode. The disadvantage of putting the off camera flash in manual mode is you now cannot control the power of the flash from the 622N remotely, from your camera. You have to actually walk up to the off camera flash and change the power setting right from the flash. Of course the advantage is you can actually see what power level you are shooting at.

          Just an FYI, you can buy a commander flash, such as the SU800, and put it on top of the 622N, all on your camera! That way you can see exactly what power level the off camera flash is firing at. I believe Yongnuo or one of the other 3rd party vendors have come out with a cheaper version of the SU800. You may want to check http://www.lightingrumours.com/ for more information on that.

          Here is another tip, and this is how I almost always control my off camera flash power now. You can use your camera’s exposure compensation to control the off camera flash, at least with the D90. It’s strange that it works, but it does. I usually use my flash in manual mode, as well as my camera. I don’t know if it works in Aperture or Shutter mode, but I’m guessing not. Instead of pushing the 622’s buttons to change the flash power, I just change the exposure compensation up or down, and it will change the off camera flash power. Pretty neat and much faster than using the 622N’s buttons.

          7 November, 2013 at 9:25 pm
  • Michael Ee says:

    Hi Dave, very nice review. Did you try it trigger sb-400? I need to trigger 2 units of sb-400 for my macro. What is the weight of the transceiver?


    11 August, 2013 at 11:21 pm
    • davemazz says:

      Hi there Michael, thank you! I haven’t tried it with an SB-400, I don’t own one, but I have used it with my SB-700, which is a lot bigger, but it works without a problem, although it is a pretty big rig! The transceiver with 2 double a batteries each weigh 130 grams, pretty light.

      13 August, 2013 at 10:26 pm
  • Jonggi says:

    i just bought yn622n iTTL for my Nikon D600 and my YN565EX. There is a problem i am having right now, that is that I mount my flash YN565EX on to the YN622N on the camera hotshoe, my camera can not operate its Focusing Meter. I can not take a shot with my ND600 (24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G) in automatic focusing method. Strangely, if i am taking shoots with Live View System, the camera’s auto focus can work normally. Can you please advise of how to resolve the situation. I am planning to purchase YN568 ii and will put it as the Master placed on YN622 on the hot shoe. I need your assistance to eliminate the auto-focusing issue. Thank you in advance.

    2 August, 2013 at 12:23 am
    • davemazz says:

      Hi there. I haven’t heard of this issue using a D600. I’m surprised, especially with a Yongnuo flash. Are you able to use any other flash as a master, and still auto focus? You may want to contact customer support, you can email them using this address: service@hkyongnuo.com

      6 August, 2013 at 12:23 am
    • Stephanie says:

      I am having literally the exact same issue with the 565ex, 622c transmitter, and the D600. Has this been resolved? I’m clueless. The AF works in live mode, but not through the viewfinder. Weird.

      17 February, 2014 at 8:42 pm
  • cereas says:


    Ty for reviw, but i have one question… How to remotly use manual mode? How to setup yn622 and flash SB700 to use it manual. Like i want to remotly true yn622 set my flash to shot wiht 1/128 and one time on full ? On TTL work great +3EV,-3EV work great, but dont know how to go on manualy … plz help (i have sb700,yn622N, nikon d90) ty

    27 June, 2013 at 5:48 am
    • davemazz says:

      Hi there cereas. Check out the link below, it will explain how to control the off camera flash remotely with the 622N. It’s pretty simple once you understand it. A big thing to understand though is you will have to remember how many stops you increased or decreased your off camera flash, as the LCD on the flash will not tell you the power settings. This is because you HAVE TO set the off camera flash to TTL mode, even if you want to use it in manual mode with the 622N. This is because the 622N can only send power information remotely when the flash is in TTL. Let me know if you have any questions or problems:


      28 June, 2013 at 8:29 pm
  • Jakub says:

    You wrote “Even if you set it to –, there was still a hint of it, especially if you were taking close up or macro shots. I ended up creating a few DIY reflectors for it to bounce the flash away from my subject.”

    You can solve this also with Nikon SG-3IR which works as blocker for visible light while passing IR:

    25 June, 2013 at 8:46 am
    • davemazz says:

      Ah, that is very cool Jakub, thanks for the info!

      25 June, 2013 at 11:01 pm
  • monkey man says:

    Hi Dave, thanks for your review. It’s really awesome that you share your personal experience with the triggers. Especially when there is not too much information on the net yet.
    I was going to buy a pair of YN’s for my Nikon D90 and SB600, but after reading this sentence in your review “It looks as the though both the SB-600 and SB-800 work fine in manual mode, but are buggy in TTL mode…” not sure what to think.
    I haven’t read about any issues with SB600 used as a slave in TTL… can you please describe what exactly you mean by TTL being “buggy”?

    24 June, 2013 at 2:23 pm
    • davemazz says:

      Hee, I like your name. I’ve read in a few places that the SB600 and the SB800 have different contact pins and don’t fit exactly, but users have been able to move them back a few millimeters to get them to work in TTL. I just came across this video review, check out the description. According to the reviewer, all units sold after 6/20 will be compatible with the SB600.

      Here is another interesting find, according to this Amazon reviewer, TTL works with his SB600:

      The Amazon review was on 6/3. If I were you, I’d buy them. If it works in TTL mode with no issue, awesome. If you have to move the contacts back a little bit, it still will work. I don’t have a SB600 or I would test it out for you. Let me know if you have any other questions about them, hopefully this will help you out a bit.

      24 June, 2013 at 11:19 pm
      • monkey man says:

        thanks Dave for the infos and links. It looks like just with every new product it needs some time to fix all the bugs. But a it is a good news for Sb600 users (maybe even SB800 problem will get fixed)

        How do you like the setup of your D90 with a commander flash SB700 on the top of the trigger? Doesn’t is feel too bulky?

        I have also came across this link. It might be and interesting product as well:

        25 June, 2013 at 11:57 am
        • davemazz says:

          That does look cool, thanks for the link. I also found a cheaper alternative to the SU-800 on that same site:
          If it is release in the States for 90 bucks, I’ll definitely get one, there are times that I want to record the settings I used.

          I haven’t done a ton of testing with the SB700 on top, but it is a little bit big bulky. I feel like I’m going to run into something with it, it’s so damn tall.

          I decided to break my review into two parts. I’m going to be adding the second part within a few days. It’ll include testing using High Speed Sync and then comparing TTL from the 622N’s vs. the CLS system. More to come!

          25 June, 2013 at 11:08 pm
          • monkey man says:

            thanks Dave,
            looking forward to read part 2

            26 June, 2013 at 12:18 am

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